Guide for visitors

A BRIEF GUIDE  TO ST CUTHBERT'S CHURCH KIRKLEATHAM

 A Church has stood on this site since the ninth century when the monks of St Cuthbert from Lindisfarne Priory made their way through these parts.  They came to tell men and women of the love of God for them, and they left in their wake a number of churches dedicated to their beloved Cuthbert, whose body they carried with them.  It is believed that St Cuthbert's Church, Kirkleatham is one of these, like those at Wilton and Kildale, Ormesby and Marton. 

Very little is known about the earlier churches which stood on this site.  An engraving of c1700 shows the church to have had a late Saxon or early Norman nave, with later 14th and 15th century aisles, chancel, vestry and belfry tower.  In 1731 the tower was rebuilt and in 1739 the vestry was demolished to make way for the Turner Mausoleum.  The rest of the church was torn down in 1761 and replaced by the existing Georgian nave and chancel, which were completed in 1763.  The upper part of the tower was also rebuilt at this time.

The current church was designed by Robert Corney of Coatham—who was probably influenced by the famous architect James Gibbs.  These men did not choose to adopt a style of architecture peculiarly ornate or ecclesiastical.  If it is stately, then its stateliness derives from its fine proportions alone.  If it is a place of peace, its peacefulness comes from the pleasing harmony of its design.  If it is a place in which we feel God's presence very close, it is because week by week we kneel at the altar to make our communion with Him as our ancestors have done for over a thousand years.

The oak pews date from 1763 and were originally tall box pews.  They were cut down c 1875 as was the fine pulpit, with its inlaid panels, which was originally a handsome three-decker. 

Two large black stone slabs in the floor of the nave.  The first one formerly held a brass memorial to William Lambert, Master of Staindrop College and at one time patron of the living of Kirkleatham Church.  The second, held a small brass plate dated 1453 asking for prayers for the souls of Thomas and Agnes Lambert, his parents.

The oak eagle lectern was made in 1901 in memory of Queen Victoria. 

The window to the right of the nave, made by Marjorie Boyce Kemp of Edinburgh in 1933, depicts Moses, Ruth, Naomi and the Israelites.  The rest of the windows in the Nave were replaced in 1901 using the present cathedral tinted glass. 

The Chancel and Sanctuary were completely refurnished between the years 1919 and 1931.  In 1919 the organ was built at a cost of £1,200, and the choir stalls put in place with their intricate poppy head carvings.  In 1931 the superbly carved oak altar was added with the panelling around it, and the whole scheme was crowned by the insertion of the very beautiful stained glass window made by A K Nicholson, of London.  The centre light portrays the Ascension of our Lord and in the background are a rainbow and a number of biblical symbols.  The other two figures represent Saint Cuthbert, standing on the rocky shore of Lindisfarne with a sea otter in his arms and a spade by his side, and Saint Hilda with a goose at her feet and Whitby Abbey in the background.  The fine altar Cross was given in 1892, and the gilded candle-standards 1915.

Most of the memorials in the chancel commemorate members of the Turner family who occupied the Hall at Kirkleatham (demolished 1955) for nearly 200 years and who were generous benefactors to church and community.  To the left of the East window is a large cartouche wall tablet by the sculptor Joshua Marshall (1659) in memory of John Turner (d 1643) and his wife Elizabeth Coulthirst (d 1658).  It is surmounted by the arms of the Turner and Coulthirst families.  On the floor is a large brass memorial to Robert Coulthirst of Upleatham (father of Elizabeth), who died in 1631 at the age of 90 having lived through the reigns of six monarchs.  He was a wealthy wool draper and a member of the Merchant Taylors Company of London.  He is depicted in the rich robes of the Company of which the coat of arms is shown.  Standing in a niche in the south wall is the lifelike statue of John Turner, eldest son of John and Elizabeth, wearing the robes of his profession of Sergeant-at-Law.  He married Jane Pepys of Norfolk (a kinswoman of Samuel), and died in 1688

Few churches in England have a mausoleum attached to them.  Kirkleatham's mausoleum was originally built on to the earlier church in 1740, hence it is approached from the chancel through the only Gothic style doorway in the building.  The builder was Cholmley Turner, great grand-son of the first John Turner and Elizabeth.  His son Marwood died in 1739 at Lyons when he was only 21 in the course of a 'Grand Tour' of Europe.  It was in memory of Marwood that Cholmley Turner had this fine mausoleum erected.  It was designed by James Gibbs, architect of St Martin-in-the-Fields in London.  Externally the building is octagonal in plan with partially rusticated walls, angle buttresses and an octagonal pyramidal roof capped by a stone urn.  Internally, the plan is circular, with four larger and four smaller niches.  Three of the larger niches are occupied by statues.

Pride of place among the statues goes to a life size marble figure of Marwood Turner surrounded by his books (1742, by Peter Scheemakers).  The other two represent Cholmley Turner (1757, by Sir Henry Cheere);  and Sir Charles Turner (1810, by Richard Westmacott Jr), the last of the Turner line.  Set where it was never meant to be, in the centre of the floor, is the large armorial chest tomb of Sir William Turner (1615-1692).  Originally this tomb stood outside the North wall of the chancel, where Sir William lies buried.  It was later housed in a special chapel now occupied by the organ before being moved into the mausoleum, in the late 19th century.

Also in the mausoleum are:  a small child's stone coffin of unknown date;  a small mediaeval coffin cover on which is carved a floreated cross and dagger (probably of Sir Thomas de Thweng, d 1374); another coffin cover, much worn, depicts a lady in repose.  It is commonly conjectured that this is Eva de Bulmer, wife of Lord Fauconberg, Sheriff of York, and a kinswoman of the de Thweng family.  She died in the 13th Century.

The mausoleum is an unusual building and well worth a visit.

At the west end of the church, the hatchment, on the wall, high above the tower door, displays the Coat of Arms and crest of Arthur Newcomen (d 1848).  The marble font is the same age as the church.  Its cover, in oak carved with foliage and cherubims, was made in the 17th Century.

The very fine silver processional cross was made in 1965 by John Webb of St Alban's

The belfry tower was rebuilt in 1731, using the stone of the earlier tower.  A number of masons' marks can still be identified.  Within the tower are two bells of 1763 and one of 1901.

In the Churchyard there are a number of monuments ranging in age from the 17th century to the 20th century. The oldest are nearest the church.  Among the chest tombs is that of Robert Corney who built the church.

The gate piers and wrought iron gates were made c 1740.  The skull and crossbones motif is frequently met within cemeteries:  it represents the banishment of all evil spirits from this holy place.  Note also the mock Roman oil lamps which surmount the Gate Piers.

If you are visiting Kirkleatham, be sure to visit Sir William Turner's Hospital and the Old Hall Museum.

The church possesses some very fine plates, now on display in the Old Hall Museum.  There is a small chalice dated 1570.  Of very great interest is a silver dish of Spanish repousse work measuring 12⅝ inches in diameter and beautifully decorated with roses, leaves, lions, mermaids, etc.  It was washed ashore at Coatham (perhaps from the wreck of a Spanish vessel) and claimed by Cholmley Turner under the law which gives right of ownership of wrecks, etc, to the owner of the coast line.  He presented it to the church in 1740.  There are five pieces which were presented to the church in 1674 by Sir William Turner.  Each piece bears his arms and an inscription.  The set comprises:

2 large flagons (ht 11¾ inches) 2 large chalices (ht 10 inches) each with a paten 1 large paten (diameter 11 inches)

THE VILLAGE OF KIRKLEATHAM

The tiny village of Kirkleatham at the foot of the Cleveland Hills, stands astride the ancient Ladgate Lane between Yarm and Whitby, within the Borough of Langbaurgh-on-Tees.

Norse invaders are thought to have been the first people to settle here.  They gave the village its name (in Old English "Hlipum').  Kirkleatham, the present form, means 'the church lands under the shelter of the hill'.

Kirkleatham is recorded in the Domesday survey, viz: 

“Lands of William de Perci, manor in Weslide.
William has there, one sokeman and seven bordars with one plough.  A priest is there, and a church, and 6 acres of meadow.  In the time of King Edward the Confessor it was worth 10s.  Now it is worth 5s. 4d."

Throughout the medieval period the manor of Kirkleatham was owned by a succession of landowners who spent most of their time on their other estates.  Very few actually lived in Kirkleatham.  Consequently, the history of the settlement during this period is sketchy.  Whilst the settlement was certainly larger in the medieval period than at present, it is doubtful whether any of the buildings (with the exception of the church) were of particular significance.  Future archaeological investigations may, however, prove otherwise.

The development of Kirkleatham as we know it today began in 1632 when the manor was brought by John Turner, the manager of alum mines belonging to the Chaloner family of Guisborough.  He built a new mansion to the east of the Church.  But it was his descendants who were responsible for changing the shape of the village.

William Turner, son of John, was apprenticed to Gerard Gore, a London merchant, and in the 1640s became a wealthy woollen draper.  He was a friend of Pepys and Wren and moneylender to the impoverished Charles II.  In 1662 he received his knighthood and was Lord Mayor of London in 1668/69.

Sir William Turner was a great public benefactor.  In 1676 he built the hospital which bears his name, in Kirkleatham to provide hospitality and education for ten orphaned or neglected boys and ten girls and a refuge for ten aged men and ten aged women.  The Hospital displays the influence of architect James Gibbs.  The buildings have been carefully restored, and especially notable is the Chapel with its magnificent stained glass.  Today the Hospital still continues its service by providing homes for the elderly.

When he died in 1692 Sir William left £5,000 for the foundation of a Free School for boys, at Kirkleatham.  This was built between 1708 and 1709.  The school hall closed by 1756, but re-opened in new premises in Coatham in 1869.  The school foundation continued as a Grammar School until 1975 when it again moved to new premises and became a Sixth Form College.  The original building still survives as the Old Hall Museum.

The fine architectural facades of Kirkleatham Hall Stable Block were designed by James Gibbs, for Cholmley Turner, in 1728.  This building can be seen by following the old driveway opposite the church.

In the 176O's Sir Charles Turner, a progressive landlord and a pioneer of scientific agriculture, wrought great changes in the village and the estate.  Hitherto the farms, workshops and labourers cottages had been scattered around the village.  Sir Charles replaced these with fourteen cottages round an open square at Yearby, complete with workshops and stores.  He pulled down the many second-rate ale-houses frequented by smugglers and the like and built a fine new house—the Turner's Arms on Yearby Lane.  He also built a large Inn at Coatham called the Waterloo tavern, and initiated that village as a holiday resort by providing the first bathing machines on the beach there.  Among his other achievements:  Kirkleatham Hall (demolished 1955) was enlarged and modernised by the architect John Carr of York;  and the surrounding Park, decorated with archways and temples.

The last of the Turners died in 1810 and the estate passed to the Newcomens.  Mrs Teresa Newcomen (1813-1887) was a woman of considerable wealth and in her turn left her mark on the local community.  She built Coatham Church and School;  was instrumental in the foundation of the Holy Rood Convent at North Ormesby, and herself took vows as a sister.  The first cottage hospital in the country was built at North Ormesby through her generosity.  Less well received was her closure of all the public houses in Coatham and Kirkleatham in 1865—including the Turner's Arms and Waterloo Tavern, after complaints from the Vicar that the people showed a greater fondness for ale than for his sermons.

After the sale of the estate in 1948 Kirkleatham suffered a long period of neglect and decay.  Despite this, Kirkleatham was designated a Conservation Area in 1970 and efforts have since been made to preserve and enhance the buildings and environment of this delightful village.  Evidence of these efforts are to be seen in the complete restoration of Sir William Turner's Hospital, partial restoration of Kirkleatham Hall Stables and conversion of the Old Hall to museum use. R estoration work has also been carried out to the mausoleum and church.

Heavy traffic which once choked the village is now diverted along the by-pass, and the village has become a quiet backwater where visitors can stroll at ease.

The Parish of Kirkleatham stretches from the tiny village of Dunsdale, south of Kirkleatham, to Corporation Road, in Redcar.  It includes the whole of the Lakes Estate, with a population of nearly 14,000.  Since 1970 the parish has been served jointly by the old Church of St Cuthbert and the new Church of St Hilda on the estate.  Both are parish churches and although each building attracts its own thriving community of worshippers, both churches work together to continue the work of Christ throughout the parish of Kirkleatham.