New …Way of Light pilgrimage route

Welcome to a breath-taking trail that transports you from the dawn of Christianity through to contemporary pilgrimage, via Dark Ages battles that changed a region’s faith, abbeys that matched Rome for majesty and a stunning seminary that taught England ’s leading ecclesiastics.

The remote Way of Light provides a larger-than-life low-down on Christianity’s illustrious history in the North East. It starts at the site of a battle victory for the pious future king and saint Oswald, a win that vanquished the region’s invaders, reunited Northumbria and brought about

its Christianisation. It proceeds via historic Hexham and its abbey, and pauses alongside one of the most wondrous testimonies to Catholic faith ever built in Northern England, one-time seminary Ushaw College, a glamorous ensemble of Gothic Revival edifices, chapels and gardens.

But settlements are few and far between on this route. What impresses just as much are the fabulous, far-reaching views from the valleys, forests and fells that form the finest upland scenery on any of the six Northern Saints Trails.

Like a guiding light at journey’s end is Durham Cathedral, with St Cuthbert’s Shrine, but also 12th century wall paintings depicting St Oswald opposite St Cuthbert. 

Heavenfield Battle Site

Pretty church on a lonely hill poignantly marking the battle that began Northumbria’s Golden Age.

The simple but charming St Oswald’s Church, on a quiet hilltop southeast of Hexham, signals the start of The Way of Light and the point where Northumbria’s Golden Age began. It was supposedly here in AD 633-634 that Oswald, then returning from exile as claimant to the throne of the Kingdom of Bernicia after the death of his brother Eanfred, defeated forces under Cadwallon ap Cadfan, King of Gwynedd, who had presided over the region for the previous year. The result of the Battle of Heavenfield was a decisive victory for Oswald, enabling him to reunite Bernicia and Deira as the Kingdom of Northumbria, and usher in a period of great stability and cultural advancement. King Oswald became powerful but his success in propagating Christianity throughout Northumbria was what enhanced his credentials for canonisation. During exile Oswald had resided with the monks of Iona and had there developed a wish to return Christianity to his people (it had briefly circulated here towards the Roman Empire’s latter years but afterwards been overtaken by Anglo-Saxon paganism). Now he was king, he favoured Aidan to Christianise the region. From his chosen base on Lindisfarne Aidan did just that, with big results: through his work, Northumbria became the standard-bearer for the reintroduction of Christianity to England.

There is plenty to reflect on then, as you stand on the Heavenfield Battle Site where all this started. Views from here, on the church’s northern side and south as you descend into the Tyne valley, are also dazzling. You are only 200 metres from the line of Hadrian’s Wall, less than a mile away at Brunton Turret there is a piece of the wall still standing.