St Mary's Woodnesborough History
Please find our Woodnesborough Church history guide below.
The Church of St Mary the Blessed Virgin Woodnesborough
Historical and Descriptive Notes for Visitors
Welcome to Woodnesborough Parish Church. We hope you enjoy your visit to this lovely Norman building. You have come through the North Door and so the altar is to your left, at the east end.
Medieval Period
The Saxons settled in the southern part of Britain in the 5th and 6th centuries and there has probably been a place of worship, either a church or a temple, on this hill continuously since that time. Anglo-Saxon remains have been found here and a ‘shrieking skull’ at Parsonage Farm may well have been excavated from this mound in the 18th century. The name of the village derives from the Saxon god Woden (after which Wednesday is named) with the suffix berg, Saxon for hill. The hill has been reduced in size over the last 200 years. According to an old legend, a golden image of Woden lies under the church somewhere nearby. In 1086 Woodnesborough was part of the lands of the Bishop of Bayeux and, being quite a wealthy village, it was mentioned twice in the Domesday Book. The church stands on top of the hill above the village, on the Roman road from Richborough to Dover.
According to Wasted (History Kent Vol XX page 141) the present church was built in 1180 by “a religious woman, one Ascellinda de Wodenberg” and given to her by the priory of Ledes. It is thought that this date is borne out by the bases of the columns on the north side of the nave. It may be that one section (presumably of Kentish Rag) rests outside the West Door, unless this stone is part of the Churchyard cross. Various other sections appear to have been built into the wall of the south aisle and are visible outside, though the origin and identification is not certain.
Outside can be seen fragments of two small lancet windows which lit the south aisle. In the south aisle on the south side of the westernmost pier there is a small piece of Norman String course. It is possible that there was once here an earlier and smaller church, later incorporated into the larger present structure.
As in all churches, the altar faces east, with the main door on the west side of the building. However, the north door is the one usually used. The walls are flint and rubble in Norman and Early English style.
The columns on the north side of the nave which are alternately round and octagonal in section show signs of restoration at some time in the past and the late Charles Coulson suggested that they may be Victorian replacements. Although extensive alterations were carried out during the incumbency of the Reverend Francis Savage (1881 to 1915), much remains of the medieval work and historical interest in the church.
This guide takes you on your journey from the left of the North Door.
The well-used children’s corner is between the door and the organ and is overlooked by a beautiful 20th century stained glass window by Frederick Cole depicting the Creation as described in the book of Genesis. The sun and moon, stars, rain and the hand of God can be seen in the upper window, with Adam, Eve and the apple tree on the right-hand side. All around are different animals, birds, fish, insects and the serpent. See how many you can find! The inscription reads ‘The gift of a Man of Kent’. It was given by an admirer of Fredrick Cole’s work, who wished to give something to the church. Although it was completed in 1977, it was not intended as a commemoration of Queen Elizabeth II’s Silver Jubilee, as is often thought.
The organ was built by Bishop in 1873 and presented in memory of Thomas Collett who lived at Ringleton Manor. A set of oboe pipes was installed in 1980. It has two manuals and pedals with a total of 10 speaking stops. There are 617 pipes in all and in 2002 an appeal raised enough funds to restore it to its excellent condition. There is a list of donors to this project on the side wall of the organ.
There is an 18th century floor slab in memory of Richard Gillow, which dates from 1744 and another one in memory of Richard and Margaret Gillow, dated 1725, but these are now under a removable section of the carpet. Behind you on the wood enclosing the organist’s seat is a plaque from 1875 in memory of Thomas Collett and a plaque commemorating the time John Walker Barwick was organist (1962-1984).
Just below the pulpit (under the carpet) is a late 18th century floor slab to Mr J Garrett. There is no information about Mr Garrett, however, there is plenty of detail on the plaque on the pillar behind you about other members of the Garrett family. This wall tablet is dated 1784 and is in memory of James, Margaret and Richard Garrett.
The Reverend Francis Savage, vicar from 1881 to 1915, made great alterations to the church. The old box pews were removed and the present pitch pine pews were placed, very much as they are today, between 1882 and 1883. (There is a picture of the church with the old box pews in on the wall of the vestry). Francis Savage gave the pulpit in 1885 in memory of his father, Johnson Savage of the Royal Artillery. In 1887 Francis’ brother, Major John William Savage and his sister, Mary Sophie Savage, gave the lectern.
The panels of the old pulpit became the vestry walls and the sounding board the door in 1912. The sounding board was a flat board above the pulpit and was the way in which the preacher’s voice was ‘amplified’, the echo was directed away from the pulpit and ‘bounced’ to the congregation - there was no loop system in those days! The open pews probably made it easier for the preacher to see if anyone fell asleep - perhaps this encouraged him to shorten his sermon! The old pulpit was located on the second column on the south side of the Nave, where there is an interruption in the moulding, about 10 feet up, just below the arches.
Moving to the chancel and into the Choir you will see above your head on the left (north side) a wall tablet dated 1881 in memory of Thomas and Georgiana Collett. Next to it is one in memory of John and Mary Cason in 1718 and then a modern tablet to a popular vicar, Arthur Brough (incumbent 1959-1965), dated 1986. In the north wall of the sanctuary, above the bishop’s chair is a delightful lancet window from 1912 showing St Nicholas in his red cope, given by Francis Savage in memory of his older brother, Midshipman Arthur Savage, RN, who died at the age of 20 in 1866. St Nicholas is the patron saint of seamen. His name in Dutch is Sint Nicolaas which became changed to Sinter Klaas, called Santa Claus in the USA. Then we commemorate Thomas Godfrey (1810) and a floor slab from 1528 is covering Master Mychill.
There may once have been a triple light in the east wall, as there seems to be the remains of the apex of a central light above the centre of the present window. The shafts which form the corner of the opening with the east wall also appear to be an earlier date than the tracery of the windows. A large aumbry (a recess which in medieval times sacred vessels and books were kept) in the east wall divided into four compartments was found underneath the plaster when the church was restored in the 1880s. There is also an aumbry in the north wall.
Above the altar is a very fine Victorian stained glass window, depicting the Good Shepherd, St Anne and St Elizabeth, surmounted by the Lamb of God, slain but risen in glory. It was placed in the church in 1898 in memory of Eliza Emmerson, who died in 1892 and is the oldest stained glass window in the church. Looking on the south side of the chancel you can see a wall tablet with a Latin inscription from 1661 in memory of Thomas Blechenden and Family.
High Altar
The high altar was extended and an all seasons frontal in very fine tapestry was given by the family of the late Mrs. M. Ash. A wall plaque dated 1982 gives details.
In the sanctuary are two oak chairs, hand carved in 1910 by Mr Davoli. They were originally used by Mr Davioli and his wife and their monograms are to be seen at the top of each chair.
Sedilia
Now you can examine the treasure of the church, dated about 1350. The sedilia provide seating for three clergymen officiating in the service of worship. It is unusual to have such elaborate sedilia in a parish church, although they are often seen in cathedrals. The three seats are canopied and richly decorated, with groined roof and beautiful carving. The columns are delicately carved as are the feather arches and spandrels, which contain shields and foliated designs. Note the little faces of people and animals. The sedilia are very well preserved and have been described as one of the most priceless examples of 13th century carving (Charles Igglesden). The adjoining piscina (stone basin for draining water used in services) is carved in a similar style. The wall immediately beneath the sedilia is decorated with medieval tiles, probably removed here from the old sacrarium.
When you have examined the sedilia, you will notice another, even older wall plaque in memory of John Parser, Vicar, who died in 1513. Another larger wall plaque from 1593 is in memory of Nicholas Spencer. The Latin inscription is translated as:
“The realms of Satan have no power over thee,
Closed to the good, the sinner’s destiny,
Jesus hath taken thee, Spencer, to His side,
Saying ‘Thou art welcome, here with me abide’”
In the wall opposite and close to the priest’s door is the end of a beam and there is evidence of the other end above the sedilia. This may have been a candle beam or a beam supporting a curtain used at certain times of the liturgical year.
Altar Rails
This is a very fine piece of work, dating from the reign of Queen Anne (1702-1714). It is made of pear wood from a local orchard with a red mahogany top rail.
Before you leave the Choir there are two floor slabs – William and Sarah Docksey 1769 and John Hill 1605. On the south side of the chancel is a window known as the Mary window. It shows three Marys – St Mary Cleophas, the Virgin Mary and St Mary of Bethany. This window is dated 1912 and is dedicated to Reverend Francis Savage’s mother, Mary Savage.
The two poppy heads which decorate the priest’s stall are the only remains of the high box pews which had been in place until the end of the 19th century.
Nave
Before the restoration was made, the roof of the nave was ceiled inside. The six King posts supporting the nave and chancel roof are thought to be original. Going towards the chancel there are indications there may have been steps here, leading to the rood loft. The rood screen divided the nave from the chancel and acted as a barrier between the altar and the people. The word comes from the Anglo-Saxon word meaning ‘cross’. The screen would have been topped by a rood loft – a narrow gallery where prayers could be said and hymns sung, especially for major festivals. Most rood lofts were removed at the time of the Reformation, but you may be able to see the steps leading to another doorway higher up the wall beside the Lady Chapel altar.
Look upwards to see the suspended rood cross, made of wrought iron by Mr Macnally of Woodnesborough and given to the Church in 1971 in memory of Mrs E Anderson by her daughter Mrs Dorothy Ruck. A framed notice explaining the significance of the figures on the cross can be seen on the side of the column.
There is a statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary and the child Jesus on a wall shelf.
On the front of the column facing the pews is a brass tablet commemorating the 60th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s accession to the throne in 1897. This was given by the parishioners, presumably by subscription or the 19th century equivalent of fundraising!
Pilgrims’ Marks
Beside you on the two middle columns on the south side of the nave are pilgrims’ marks. After the martyrdom of Thomas á Becket, pilgrims travelled to visit his shrine in Canterbury Cathedral. It was normal for them to leave graffiti on their way, just as people do these days, and this church has several examples on the fine pillars of the arches. There are many crosses and ornamental circles deeply cut in the square stone columns on the south side of the nave. There is a chalice and paten cut into one of these columns and, just above the chalice, a patriarchal cross.
Lady Chapel
At the east end of the south aisle is the Lady Chapel, with a piscina and aumbry in situ. Two embroidered church banners stand in this chapel. On the south side of the Lady Chapel, you can see the 1992 window showing St Francis of Assisi, which was given in memory of a Man of Kent, Tom Miller,1991, by his brother. Notice particularly the many different types of birds and the ‘wolf’ – the donor owned a German Shepherd dog at the time! The window was also made by Frederick Cole of Shepherdswell, who was for many years the Stained Glass Designer of Canterbury Cathedral and a personal friend of the donor. There is a 20th century wall plaque in memory of Brian Mahon from 1949.
The eagle lectern, which now stands in front of the altar, was given in 1887 by Francis Savage’s brother, Major John William Savage and his sister, Mary Sophie Savage, in memory of their father, Johnson Savage of the Royal Artillery. This fierce eagle traditionally has a piece of corn in its beak for Harvest Festival.
The War Memorial Chapel
On the south side of the nave is the area, formerly a chapel, in memory of the Woodnesborough men and women who gave their lives in the two World Wars. Their names are inscribed in a Book of Remembrance, given in memory of Ernest Dilnot Smith, killed in action in 1916.The Standard of the British Legion stands here and the Union Flag and British Legion Flag overhang the chapel. A plaque on the south wall explains that the lamps in this chapel were given in memory of Amy Dilnot Smith.
The priest’s vestry, made from the old pulpit as part of the reordering in 1912, carried out by the Reverend Francis Savage, has lead-light arched windows. In 2020 the vestry was reduced in size, in order to install a new accessible toilet at the west end of the vestry. A new panelled modesty screen was built in 2020, in which the original carved arches of the vestry wall have been replicated.
On the column on your right as you face the north door is a 1777 plaque to William Gibbs. Now turn towards the west end of the church and you will see a Royal Coat of Arms. Before you examine it look up on the wall to your left and read the lovely wall plaque giving details of Sarah Stewart’s gift to the Parish Poor in 1836.
The Royal Coat of Arms
Prior to 1968, any visitor to the church could have seen the Royal Coat of Arms of King George III hanging on the wall behind the font – dirty, torn and discoloured. The panel painted on canvas in an unusual frame was dark with candle and lamp smoke of centuries and had suffered at the hand of vandals in past times. Several knife cuts were apparent and the White Horse of Hanover was completely missing. The Archdeacon, in granting a Faculty for the filling in of the Belfry Arch, had made it a proviso that these Arms should be restored and placed in the Archway. Alec Goulden, Parochial Church Council Secretary and Churchwarden for many years and a member of the Heraldry Society, undertook the work of restoration. When he removed the canvas from the frame, two important discoveries were made. The scrap of canvas on which the White Horse of Hanover was painted, was found wedged in the base of the frame. Even more exciting was the further discovery of another much older Coat of Arms of the Stuart reign. After careful scrutiny, the initials A and R (Anne Regina) were found on the crumbling design – it was indeed the Coat of Arms of Queen Anne.
A wall plaque gives information about the 1981 gift in memory of Richard Dilnot Smith of the beautiful church clock. You can see it on the tower once you go outside again – it is a central feature of the village. Another wall plaque explains that in 2011 Miss Jean Saunders gave a new lighting and sound system to the church.
Tower
The doors under the Royal Coat of Arms lead to the tower, containing five bells. These are now chimed, not rung, to call people for worship on Sundays and for weddings, to join in the joyful celebrations. The bells were re-tuned and re-hung in 1909 and two were re-cast.
In 1745 the original steeple was taken down and replaced by the existing cupola, according to Parish records. The steeple had to be removed due to decay and extra brick courses were added to the tower together with a wooden box-shaped structure capped by a cupola topped by a weathervane and enclosed in an oak balustrade. The Curate of the Parish sent a letter to Trinity House asking for help with the reconstruction of the steeple as an aid to mariners, but this assistance was refused. The steeple had been a navigational landmark for mariners in Sandwich Haven - when lined up between two of the Sandwich steeples, for ships turning into a deep channel through which they could enter Sandwich harbour. Trinity House did not recognise the steeple as a landmark but probably by the mid-18th century the steeple was little used in this way, so Trinity House would not help to replace it.
The original architect’s drawings for the replacement of the old steeple for two possible new steeples and for the present louvre with cupola can be seen framed and on display on the church wall next to the entrance to the tower. A framed certificate of thanksgiving for the renovation of the Church roof in 1963 also hangs on the wall. Above is a very old wall plaque from 1710 in memory of Elizabeth Shrubsole.
The West Door and arch leading to the nave are early English. The capitals in the shaft were carved in the 1880s to agree with a time-worn fragment that had fortunately survived.
Accessibility, Fellowship and Social Activities
The church has always had a very welcoming congregation. Thanks to the Hughes Bequest (Canon Edward Marshall Hughes, Vicar from 1946 to 1953), the northwest corner of the nave was refloored, carpeted and equipped with cupboards and comfortable chairs, for use at meetings and social gatherings, both after Sunday services and at other times. A plaque on the east wall records this bequest. The square wooden table was given in memory of Lionel and Margaret Smith in 1994 by their family.
In 2020 a major reordering of the west end of the church and the base of the tower was completed. The overriding aim was to make the church a welcoming and accessible space that is flexible and useable for a variety of purposes whilst retaining the beauty, history and meaningfulness of the building that has been a focal point of the village for so many years.
The accessibility was achieved by levelling the floor from the West Door entrance to the level of the islands on which the pews are mounted, right through to the choir stalls at the east end of the nave. This included removing the step at the West Door thus making the whole building wheelchair and pushchair friendly. The West doors themselves were refurbished and draught-proofed to make them more manageable.
The kitchen room at the base of the tower was totally redecorated, with a new sink unit and modern cupboard units. A new gas boiler and gas connection were installed. The hardwood panels in the existing doorway frame into the main body of the church were replaced by glass panels giving an immediate and wonderful view down the aisle to the altar.
All the pews from the door at the tower end to the cross-aisle which leads in from the existing North Door were removed and replaced with stacking chairs and tables, creating a larger, useful and flexible space, with new parquet wooden flooring and carpeting. An accessible toilet was installed at the west end of the vestry. The newly reduced vestry is now entered from the door at the east end.
Two “bays” were created on each side of the main aisle to accommodate either wheelchairs or pushchairs.
All changes to the church building were approved by the Diocesan Advisory Committee (DAC). After about six month’s reconstruction, the re-ordered church was re-opened for public worship on Sunday, 2nd August 2020, when it was dedicated by the Archdeacon of Ashford.
Font
Overlooking the font is the third Frederick Cole window, given by a person who came into the community from an American desert. It depicts the well-known passage from the book of Matthew (Chapter 25, verse 35) “I was a stranger and you took me into your home” and was given in gratitude for the very warm welcome extended. It has been placed in the area where children are welcomed into the church family by baptism at the font. The window was dedicated at a Family Service on 7th September 1997 and was the last window Frederick Cole completed. He died in April 1998.
The font is from the early 20th century, replacing a stone Georgian font, similar in structure (although different in material) to that in St Nicholas church in Ash.
Chalice and processional brasses (not on display)
The deep East Kent pattern silver chalice, dated 1586, two years before the Spanish Armada, bears the monogram ‘L.S’ It is in use for our Eucharist services.
Two brass candleholders, which swing when moved, are carried in procession for important services and date from the mid-19th century. The early-20th century processional cross, also made from brass, is used in church services.
Porch
The porch was added in 1883 and has an open pine roof and tiled floor, replacing a brick porch dated 1720, the keystone of which is outside the present porch door.
You have now arrived back at the North Door. We hope you have enjoyed your visit. Please do look around the churchyard if you have time or come back another day. You’ll always be welcome!
Churchyard
The Woodnesborough War Memorial is located near the church gate next to the main church path. There are two Commonwealth Graves in the churchyard, Private Richard Henry Fagg and Driver Thomas Lee.
The grave of the Reverend Francis Savage and his sister Mary, who lived with him in the Old Vicarage lies to the west of the church next to the road - it is white and has an upright cross.
There is also a very interesting grave of a man who became known as the Giant of Woodnesborough. It lies near the northeast end of the Church and has a very long body-stone! The foot stone gives the date 1777 and the head stone registers the name John Hawkes. The old Registers show that he was baptised in the Church and died aged 56 years. A wildlife area is being developed in the lower part of the graveyard behind the church to encourage wildflowers and insects such as bees, butterflies.
Recorded List of Incumbents
1180-1290 names unknown
1290- William Elfegh
1311 John Mounpilers
1326 Adam de Elmstede
1357 John de Farlegh John Gregory
1361 Peter Polteman
1392 John atte Knolle
1404 William Merrying
1418 John Bailly
1419 John Frythbek
1420 Thomas Myrkeston
1422 John Stranglow
1437 Thomas Barown
1440 William Stephan
1458 William Holebourne
1462 Richard Lydnam
1475 Clemens Bertram
1482 Nicholas Brymyngehan
1496 John Parker
1514 Thomas Pereson BD
1518 Thomas Benson
1520 Nicholas Eyre Ade Moore
1533 Richard Slane
1538 John Doone
1540 Hugo Fresell William Lott
1568 Walter Harrison
1596 Jacob Wattes MA
1619 William Brigham MA
1620 Jasper Green
1658 William Dunbar
1660 Joseph Jackson
1667 John Beck
1672 Isaac Lovell BA
1729 John Head MA
1736 John Billingsley
1737 John Upton MA
1747 Jonathan Soan MA
1768 John Clark DD
1776 James Williamson MA
1785 John Smith MA
1833 Charles Frederick Rogers Baylay MA
1847 Henry Hotham BA
1881 Francis Savage MA
1915 Henry Lonsdale Boldero
1946 Edward Marshall Hughes BD
1953 Arthur James Ilemmings MA
1955 Donald Henry Pickard MC
1959 Arthur Brough S.Th
1966 Wallace Booth
1980 Eric Reginald Alfred Alder BA
1990 Eileen Rosemary Routh (Parish Deacon)
(Vicar of the Benefice 1994-1996)
1997 John Gordon Kemp Batson
2003 Nigel Mark Genders
2009 Daniel Harrison BA MA
2013 David Ridley (with Eileen Lander – Associate Priest 2014-17)
This guide was amended and updated in 2021 by Donald Baldwin with assistance from Alison Hilton. It is based on the 2006 guide revised and amplified by Jan Galbraith, and the Historical and Descriptive Notes for Visitors by W Marshall, 1997.
© Woodnesborough PCC